After feeding in the Black Sea, bonito come down through the Bosphorus in shoals from early September. Medium fish arrive in the first weeks of the season and large, oily ones by late October; a big bonito of more than 3 kg is called 'torik' in Istanbul.
Minimum size and fishing
The legal minimum size for bonito is 25 cm. Because the purse-seine season opens on 1 September, the first week of September is the freshest and most affordable time for bonito. After December only a few fish remain in the Marmara, and bonito leaves our menu.
Bonito in the kitchen
- Grilled steaks: 2.5 cm thick, briefly over high heat.
- Lakerda: cured from October bonito in salt for 10 days and on our meze counter all winter.
- Pilaki: braised in olive oil with carrot, potato and garlic.
Bonito goes best with red onion salad and rocket. The kilo price refers to whole fish; the price of a steak portion is on the menu.